Beyond Stop, Drop and Roll
Tips for holding a fire safety drill



Your kids may know the basics when it comes to fire safety, but do they know what to do in case of an actual fire in the home? If the answer is somewhere between "not reallly..." and "ummm..." read on so you can have a successful fire safety drill with the family.

(Image via: iStock)

One fire drill doesn't cut it. Having regular fire drill and a solid evacuation plan allows your responses and behaviours to become automatic in case of an emergency. Most home fires start in the middle of the night and only allows minutes for evacuation while you and your family are tired, confused or scared.

It's important to make sure that during the drill proper fire safety awareness is part of the drill. Rather than just walking outside, practice real and different scenarios. Is the home filled with smoke? Teach the kids to crawl along the floor to safely escape and check door handles for heat before entering or exiting a room.

Tips For a Successful Fire Drill

• Be consistent with your expectations and performance. Don't be relaxed with one drill, and strict with another.
• Include people who visit the house regularly such as baby-sitters, neighbor's kids, extended family.
• Fire drills are for holidays too. Once the turkey is brining or Christmas tree goes up, have a drill that takes the new decorations into consideration.
• Have night time drills where family members must use flashlights to escape.
• Have fun, but take all drills seriously. Insist that all family members who are present participate. 
• Getting out of the house is only the first step. Your fire drill should include meeting up outside the house at a predesignated place, like a landmark or structure a safe distance from the house.
• Practice fire drills where family members must escape from different rooms in the house including bedrooms, bathrooms, the kitchen and the living room.
• Hold drills at all times of the day and night. Fire strikes anytime, so practice at all times.
• If you have second-story windows, practice using a fire ladder. Deploy it and climb it.
• Children in your family should know how to deploy fire ladders, use a fire extinguisher and how to call 911.
• Appoint one person as "fire marshal." It's their job to trigger the alarm and time the exit, take turn being fire marshal so everyone knows how to take charge.
• Time your drills. Knowing how fast people are getting out will help you improve your plan.
• Keep records of every drill. In case of a fire, your insurance company will look favorably on this information.
• Make everyone participate. This builds teamwork and helps family/employees learn to depend on each other.
• Throw in unexpected blocks, like having a family member block an exit and shout, "I'm a fire! 
• Go out another way!" or use a piece of cloth draped or pinned across an exit to represent fire or a blocked exit.
• Talk about the fire drill afterward and critique it. What went right, what went wrong. What could you do better next time.

Home Fire Safety Checklist



As a home owner, it can be easy to install a couple smoke detectors and throw a fire extinguisher in the kitchen and say your prepared. The hard honest truth is homeowner's need to take a a more comprehensive approach to fire safety and preparedness. By checking a few areas around your house with this fire safety checklist, you can ensure your home is a little safer, and sleep a little easier.

(Image: iStock)

Garage

Oily rags are in air-tight containers and away from heat sources
Trash is not stored in the garage
No pull-down stair access to garage attic space is linked to the main house
Door leading from the garage to the house is solid, has a threshold to block fire from traveling to the house
Door leading to the house has weather stripping to prevent carbon monoxide fumes from passing through
Garage is clear of junk that can facilitate fire
Gasoline is stored away from ignition sources like heat, sparks, and flames and in containers with approved labels.

Basement

Ensure areas around heat-generating equipment such as a furnace, oil burner or wood stove, are clear of combustible materials, debris and rags
Water heater burner-access doors are closed to prevent flame roll-out
Breaker panel has not been recalled or recommended for replacement
Breaker wires are not loose
Wire insulators show no signs of erosion or decay
Arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) have been added for protection from electrical wiring faults, particularly in older homes. WARNING: If you’re not an electrician, call one. Don’t try to fix this yourself
Oily rags are in air-tight containers and away from heat sources
Trash is not stored in the basement.

Laundry Room

There is no lint build-up inside the dryer, exhaust duct, or behind the dryer
Foil or plastic accordion-type ducting material has been replaced with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct.

First Floor

Working smoke detector
Cooking surfaces are clean
Towels, curtains, plastic utensils, and pot holders are stored away from hot surfaces
Cookies and other kid-friendly snacks are stored away from the stove
Kitchen has a working fire extinguisher
Light bulbs meet the recommended wattage of each fixture
Incandescent lights are not exposed, do not have a shade closer than 12 inches, and are at least 12 inches from combustibles
Any furniture meets recommendations for fire-resistant upholstery
Fireplace has a screen, surrounding area is clear of debris, and flue is clear of obstructions
Chimney is cleaned annually
Chimney has fire-stop of gypsum board or fire-code gypsum board at each floor penetration
Metal vent areas around chimney are blocked by sheet metal
No electric cords run under carpets or are pressed against a wall
Extension cords and outlets are not overloaded (powering too many devices).

Second Floor

All mattresses were made after 1973
Each bedroom and hallway has a working smoke detector especially if you sleep with your doors closed
Closet lights are not exposed
Light bulbs meet the recommended wattage of each fixture
Incandescent lights are not exposed, do not have a shade closer than 12 inches, and are at least 12 inches away from combustibles
No electric cords run under carpets or are pressed against a wall or bed
Extension cords and outlets are not overloaded
Portable heaters or other heat-producing appliances are three feet from beds and other flammable materials, such as curtains
All bedrooms have an escape ladder that all members of the family know how to use
Electric blankets are UL-approved, with cords in solid condition
The floor has a working fire extinguisher.

Attic

There are no gaps around the chimney

There is at least a three-inch gap between insulation and lighting fixtures.

How To Plumb a Single to Double Bathroom Vanity



Switching from a single to a double bathroom sink sounds complicated but we promise you can actually do it yourself. Once you done the fun part of choosing your new sinks and vanity, it is just a matter of tying together 2 sinks into a one main drain, easy right? We believe in you!

(Image Via Houzz)

Shut off the water with the shut-off valves under the sink. Begin removing the existing vanity by loosening the caulk between the wall and the vanity with a utility knife. Carefully remove the vanity countertop so as not to damage the wall. Remove all the screws or nails that are holding the old vanity to the wall. Dispose or recycle your old vanity.

Turn off all water going to the house with the main shut-off valve. For additional safety, turn off the shut-off valves on top of your water heater. Find the lowest faucet in the house and drain the water. Once that is complete, you can remove the old bathroom vanity shut-off valves and dispose of them.

Put in new double-outlet valves. Do this by slotting the supply pipe into the valve, making sure to pass the nut and compression washer over the pipe. Tighten that with a wrench. Repeat this for the hot and cold lines.

Turn the main water supply back on and make sure not to forget the water heater valves. Check the new plumbing for leaks. If you find one, tighten the compression nut a bit more.

Before you install the new vanity top, install the faucet and drain assembly to it. Attach the flexible supply line and tighten the compression nuts to the threaded posts that are on the faucet. Put the faucet through the pre-drilled holes in the vanity top, tighten the nut included to keep it in place. Put in the drain assembly by applying plumber’s putty under the rim of the drain trim. Push it down through the top of the drain hole. Next, tighten the nut from underneath the vanity until putty oozes out on all sides. This seals the drain to prevent leaks. Scrape off excess putty.

Screw in the tailpiece that comes from the drain assembly to the drain pipe and tighten it. Put in the lift lever and the stopper by lining up the lift lever through the hole in the rear of the tailpiece. Place it into the hole in the stopper.

Install the new vanity, securing it to the wall studs. Check to make sure the top is level and that all valves are clear of any drawers or other obstacles in the vanity. Apply a bead of silicone along the top of the vanity cabinet and set the sink on top.

Connect the supply lines to the hot and cold shut-off valves. Tighten the compression nuts with a wrench. Hook up connect the new drain assembly to the old drain pipe. Use a t-connector and a new p-trap. Tighten. 

Turn your shut-off valves back on. Keep your eyes peeled for leaks. Turn on the faucet and check for any leaks from the drain line. Fill the sink up with water and allow it to all drain so that you can check for leaks under pressure. Once you're sure everything is fine apply caulk to the sides and back of the vanity top to secure it to the wall. Allow it dry for 24 hours.

10 Strange Things You Can Compost



When most people think of composting they think food scraps, but there is so much more that you can add. Once you read this list you'll find your self standing over the bin asking yourself, "Could I compost this?" and chances are pretty good that you can.

However, a few things to avoid composting are meat, items soiled with human fluids and diseased plants.

1. Skunked beer, ancient candy bars, expired protein bars 


2. Cat fur, dog hair, and nail clippings. Just try not to keep your nail clippings in a jar, that will probably freak people out. If it's in the vacuum, it can go in the compost.


3. Your hair – you could even bring the clippings home from your hair dresser. If you don't mind some stares while you stroll around with bags of hair of course.


4. Bills, because shoving bills in with melon rinds and egg shells is way more satisfying!


5. Old fish food and stale catnip 


6. Jell-O (gelatin) 


7. Bamboo products such as spoons, chopsticks, etc. 


8. Wood fire ashes from grill or fire-place (also from smoking fish and other meats) 


9. Crepe paper streamers. Tear it up like it's 1999 and then tear them down.


10. Small pets that have died, like goldfish (Not recommended, but possible.)

What strange things can you add to your own compost?

Native Plants Make For a Successful Garden



Gardening doesn't have to be all finicky with companion planting and moon phases, it can be simple and enjoyable. The easiest way to keep a low maintenance garden is to choose plants native to your region, and Alberta has some great selections for a beautiful garden year round.


Flowers

Brown-Eyed Susan

These large flowers can be found in Alberta's Prairies, Foothills and the Rocky Mountains in sunny, dry locations such as dry open meadows and hillsides. They attract butterflies, bees and birds and grow quickly with blooms from June to early August.

Forget Me Nots

These cheery little blooms can be found nearly anywhere in Alberta so long as they have a sunny, sheltered and well drained area. The showy flowers have a long bloom time from May to August and make for a great boarder at the front of a flower bed.

Giant Hyssop

This large leafy plant produces large, showy blue flower spikes that attract birds, bees and butterflies. It prefers partially shaded, well drained areas typically growing in moist open meadows and on the edge of aspen woodlands.

Prairie Crocus

These slow growers have a short bloom time but are still a welcome sight for many as it means spring has sprung in Alberta. Their little purple flowers generally poke up through the snow in late march and by April have transformed into fluffy seed heads that linger until summer. These flowers prefer well drained sunny meadows and hillsides.

Red Columbine

These bright red and yellow blooms and a perfect garden plant growing quickly and being less particular about their growing conditions. These showy blooms attract butterflies and hummingbirds  and provide great fall colour.

Shrubs

Alberta Wild Rose

Alberta's provincial flower can also be a great addition to your garden! This small, woody shrub provides great colour all the way through to the fall and forms edible rosehips.

Yellow Twig Dogwood

This small deciduous shrub is great for filling space and provides great winter colour with it's bright yellow twigs. It looks fantastic when mixed with Red Osier Dogwood.

Red Osier Dogwood

This fast growing shrub is great provides great winter colour when paired with Yellow Twig Dogwood. In the fall it's leaves turn a deep red, making this a great year round garden plant.

Bearberry

This low, slow grower makes for an interesting ground cover with it's small purple-white flowers and bright red berries. It tolerates acidic soils that can be caused by fallen pine needles.

Highbush Cranberry

This fast growing shrub can grow up to 5 metres high and clusters of white blooms in late June. It also produces an edible, bright red fruit that often hangs on through the winter.

Trees

White Spruce

These large, dense spruce trees can grow up two 16 feet and are great shelterbelt plants but can even be pruned into hedges if height is an issue.

Trembling Aspen

These large deciduous trees have small roundish leaves that "tremble" in the wind creating a relaxing atmosphere. The small leaves turn a bright yellow in the fall.

Balsam Fir

The balsam fir the the only fir tree native to Northern regions and is easily distinguished from spruce by it's flat needles. Balsam Fir are commonly used by Christmas tree growers for their fast and dense growth.

Balsam Poplar

This large deciduous tree has leaves that turn yellow in the fall. If seedlings are grown from a cutting, and are a male clone the do not produce the white fluff that is normally seen.

Schubert Chokecherry

This small ornamental, fruit bearing deciduous tree  has maroon coloured leaves and produces dark red edible berries. It is great for providing long season colour in any garden.

Tune Up a Sliding Door

(Image: Houzz)

Exterior Sliders

Remove the door and inspect the track, be sure to have someone help you as the door will be quite heavy. To remove the door, slide the operating panel into the half open position. From inside lift the door up into the top track as far as possible. Tilt the door so the bottom goes outward and the top can be gently lowered. Place the removed door onto a saw horse.

Many exterior sliding doors collect dirt and debris so be sure to clean the tracks with a stiff bristle brush or sponge and some soap and water. Then clean and lubricate the rollers in the bottom of the door.

If the track is bent and rubbing against the door, tap out the bend using a block of wood and hammer. Reinstall your door panel. With the door nearly closed, look for a even space between the door and the jamb. Adjust if necessary.

If you need to adjust one side of the door up or down, locate the adjustment screws at the bottom of the door. Look for trim caps covering the screws, if there are some you will need to pry those out first. Turning the screws clockwise should raise the door; counter-clockwise should lower it, Start by giving each screw a quarter turn to check the action. Adjust the height as needed.

Interior Bypassing Closet Door

Turn on the closet light and close yourself inside the closet to see how the door meets the jamb. If the door meets the jamb but rubs the carpet, or if the door is too high and does not meet with the floor guides, raise or lower both sides equally.

Using a screwdriver turn the adjusting screws, typically located on the back of each roller bracket, until you've aligned the door with the jamb. Some cam-types adjust as you turn the screw. While some other types allow you to adjust after loosening the screw and setting it in place by retightening the screw.

Pocket Doors

The door brackets on the top of the door hook onto hanger bolts suspended from a pair of two or four wheel trolleys that ride in the track. The hanger bolts allow you to make adjustments. To access the hanger bolts, remove the stop and the split head jamb on one side of the door. This will either be quite tricky or easy, depending on how the door fastens together.
 
If you see screws, remove them. If you don't see any screws, carefully pry off the stop and look again for screws that may secure the split jamb to the frame of the pocket door. If the casing is nailed to the jamb, it shouldn't be. Pry the pieces apart enough to cut the nails with a hacksaw blade, or drive each nail through the casing with a nail set and hammer. 

Use an open-ended wrench to turn the hanger bolt and level the door. When you've properly adjusted the door, tighten the locknut, then reinstall the trim and touch up the paint as needed.

How To Repair Interior Doors



Do your interior doors open and close by themselves? Come unlatched when you're certain you closed it properly? No, your house isn't haunted, identify the real issue and fix it.

(Image: Houzz)

Problem: Binds at outside top edge
The door is sticking to the top edge because the screws have stripped or loosened over time.

Solution: Drive in a long screw
Remove the loose screw and drive a No. 8, 3-in. screw into the trimmer stud closest to the stop. Brace yourself against the latch-side jamb and push hard to avoid stripping the screw head.

Problem: Binds at inside bottom edge

The lower door jamb is out of plumb and the door is catching at the bottom.

Solution: Re-nail the jamb 
Pry out the inside casing with a stiff putty knife. Drive a casing nail through the jamb and existing shim into the trimmer stud. Punch the nail slightly below the wood surface with a nail set, then putty the hole, sand smooth and refinish.

Problem: Binds along the entire edge
The whole door is binding along the edge, mostly only when the weather is humid.

Solution: Sand the edge
With the door installed, using the jamb as a guide mark the trim line with tape. Then remove the door and sand down to the tape with a belt sander.

Problem: Doesn't latch
The latch won't catch unless you lift or slam the door.

Solution: File the strike plate
Clamp the plate in a vise and file down the side that needs to be enlarged. Choose a flat metal file approximately the same width as the strike opening to make filing easier.